thePretendgineer

This was built specifically for Bricks Builder, but I’m sure it could be easily adapted to anything. The gist is it expands an accordion at the ID pulled from the anchor tag target in the URL.

window.addEventListener("load", function() {
  var hash = window.location.hash;
  if (hash) {
    // Remove the "#" from the hash to get the element ID.
    var elementId = hash.substring(1);
    var accordionEl = document.getElementById(elementId);
    if (accordionEl) {
      // If the accordion isn't expanded, simulate a click to expand it.
      if (accordionEl.getAttribute("aria-expanded") === "false") {
        accordionEl.click();
      }
      // Scroll to the element with an offset for better visibility.
      var offset = 50; // Adjust as needed.
      var elementPosition = accordionEl.getBoundingClientRect().top + window.pageYOffset;
      var offsetPosition = elementPosition - offset;
      window.scrollTo({
        top: offsetPosition,
        behavior: "smooth"
      });
    }
  }
});

I had Grok make me a table of filament compatibility for multi-material prints. I picked up an Anycubic Kobra 3 combo with their material changer on BF but I’ve never done multi-material, so this should be interesting…

3D Printing Filaments: A No-Nonsense Guide

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PLA: The Beginner’s Best Friend

• What it is: Polylactic Acid—fancy name for plastic made from stuff like cornstarch.
• Pros: Prints easy, barely warps, tons of colors to play with.
• Cons: Turns into goo above 60°C, so no hot car dashboards.
• Good for: Desk toys, prototypes, or anything that doesn’t need to take a beating.
• Heads-up: This is the starter filament. Cheap, smells vaguely like breakfast, and forgiving as hell. Just don’t expect it to hold up when the heat’s on.

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ABS: The Tough Guy

• What it is: Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene—yep, LEGO plastic.
• Pros: Solid, handles heat up to 100°C, and you can smooth it with acetone for that pro finish.
• Cons: Warps like crazy without the right setup. Heated bed required.
• Good for: Car parts, tool handles, or anything that needs some grit.
• Heads-up: It’s a bit of a diva—needs a draft-free zone and maybe an enclosure. Worth it if you’ve got the patience.

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PETG: The All-Rounder

• What it is: Polyethylene Terephthalate Glycol—think water bottle plastic with a twist.
• Pros: Strong, bends a little without snapping, easier than ABS to print.
• Cons: Stringy if your settings suck.
• Good for: Gizmo parts, food-safe stuff (check your brand), or anything needing balance.
• Heads-up: Middle-of-the-road perfection. Tweak retraction to dodge the cobwebs, and you’re golden.

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TPU: The Flexible Filament

• What it is: Thermoplastic Polyurethane—rubber’s nerdy cousin.
• Pros: Stretchy as hell, great for squishy stuff.
• Cons: Pain to print if your extruder’s not direct-drive.
• Good for: Phone cases, shoe inserts, or anything you can squeeze.
• Heads-up: Slow your roll—literally. Low speed keeps it from turning into a stringy mess.

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Nylon: The Heavy-Duty Option

• What it is: Polyamide—tough-as-nails plastic.
• Pros: Durable, takes a hit without cracking.
• Cons: Sucks up water like a sponge, needs high heat to print.
• Good for: Gears, hinges, or anything you’d trust in a fight.
• Heads-up: Keep it dry in a sealed bag with desiccant. Wet nylon’s a nightmare.

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Specialty Filaments: For When You’re Feeling Extra

• Wood-fill: Prints with a woody look and smell. Sandable.
• Metal-fill: Heavy, polishes up shiny. Feels legit.
• Conductive: Works for basic circuits or touch-sensitive bits.
• Heads-up: These are the divas of the filament world. Check your nozzle and settings, or they’ll clog your life up.

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How to Pick Your Poison

• Want easy? PLA’s your go-to.
• Need tough and heat-proof? ABS or PETG.
• Something bendy? TPU’s got you.
• Showing off? Specialty stuff.

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